By Jacqui D. Sinarle 

A new generation of chef is bringing something different to the table in the Central Valley by highlighting simply prepared, local products. “We are trying to push the envelope for foodies so they don’t have  to go to San Francisco to get a great  gourmet meal,” said Marco A. Alvarado,  28, Executive Chef at Bacchus  Food and Spirits in Modesto. “It’s not  about the big metropolitan areas anymore.  There are a lot of young talents  who choose to work under big names,  as well as others, who hone their skills  by themselves, presenting an interesting  posture on food.” 

The New Guard  A native of Chile and graduate of  the California Culinary Academy, Alvarado  observed, “I learned the basics  in my own family, then worked in a  few restaurants just for fun, and later  realized that I wanted to cook for a  living. A big part of my training has  been the different foods I tasted in San  Francisco, different fl avors and colors.  Then I took off in an adventure to  the Caribbean where I rediscovered  the beauty of sweet, citrus, and spicy  foods. With this knowledge, I came  back to the states and immersed myself  in the professional world of cooking.”  Before joining Bacchus when it  opened in December 2006, Alvarado  worked simultaneously  at three different  restaurants  in San Francisco.  He is among  the talented group  of young chefs who  have honed their  skills in big cities,  then settled down  to cook in smaller  towns among the farms of California’s  Central Valley.  “I like to promote a menu where I  can pull in items from a 150-mile radius,  especially when it comes to produce,”  Alvarado said. “I really appreciate  the noble work our farmers do with  what they harvest. For example, Kline  Organic Produce in Waterford and Nicolau  Farms in Modesto make great  products.”  Michael Midgley, 29, is another  member of the new guard of local  chefs who appreciate the Valley’s  bounty. “Quality ingredients—that’s  what’s most important, especially  those that are locally grown and harvested,”  Midgley said. “I make fettucine  Alfredo with local asparagus  and gazpacho with heirloom tomatoes.  Our area’s fresh produce can be  incorporated into any dish.”  Born and raised in Stockton, Midgley  became a dishwasher/prep cook  for Elkhorn Country Club at age 14,  and worked in a variety of restaurant  jobs before training at the California  Culinary Academy, owning and operating  a bar, and returning to the kitchen  to cook at Wine and Roses Restaurant  in Lodi.  Midgley competed in the second  season of Bravo TV’s Top Chef series  and made a conscious decision to resume  his career in Stockton. “In Top  Chef, I cooked for some great chefs,  challenged myself and became more  inspired,” Midgley explained. “I started  my own catering business when I came  back to Stockton, and now I’m in the  process of trying to open my own place  here. I want to make simple American  food, fresh and local, and slowly introduce  new concepts that I have.”  New culinary concepts may be appreciated  on Top Chef, but they tend  to challenge Central Valley taste buds,  Midgley admitted. “A lot of people  have palates geared toward corporate  restaurants, but there’s so much more  food out there, so many different cultures  and cuisines. It’s a challenge  to bring in new ideas, concepts, and  trends, and get people to accept them  and get excited about them.”  Alvarado agreed. “Trying to introduce  new proteins to the public  is always a challenge, but that makes  things more interesting and pushes  me to be more creative. Some dishes  are a success, some not. Then you just  move on to the next project.” 

A Passion for Food  Both Alvarado and Midgley were  initially inspired to cook at an early age  when they became involved in preparing  family meals, and they continue  to be motivated by a passion for food.  That’s also the primary motivation for  tomorrow’s chefs—students enrolled  in the culinary arts programs at The  Institute of Technology in Modesto.  “Cooking is in their blood,” observed  Paul Topping, Culinary Director.  The Institute of Technology offers  two culinary programs, a seven-month  Culinary Arts Specialist Program that  has been granted educational assurance  by the American Culinary Federation,  and a 15-month Culinary  Arts Professional Program that has  been accredited by the ACF. Each  program also features an externship  component: 180 hours  of fi eld experience that  often involves training at  Black Oak Casino, The  Barnwood Restaurant  and Catering, Galletto’s  Ristorante, My Chef Catering,  Doubletree Hotel  or Dewz Restaurant. The  Culinary Arts Professional  Program is currently  being reviewed for approval to confer  an Associate of Occupational Science  degree in the State of California.  This degree standard in the industry  refl ects a higher level of experience  in food, as well as management and  fi nancial understanding—to be not  just a cook but a well rounded professional  in every aspect of the business,”  Topping explained.  IT’s students range from graduates  fresh out of high school to career-  changing adults, Topping said.  “We encourage all the creativity they  have. I want the next superstar chefs  to come from our school.” 

The Future of Valley Cuisine  As the new generation of chef  continues to evolve, it promises to enhance  Central Valley cuisine with creativity,  as well as fresh products. “Experiences  are the key,” Alvarado remarked.  “Your palate doesn’t change,  but evolves with you. It changes the  way you appreciate ingredients and  techniques, and gives you a better understanding  of why people eat what  they eat. In this career you never stop  learning; it is a lifelong trip.”  “I think people in our area are  starting to demand better food,” Midgley  added. “They want to eat fresher,  healthier.” He predicted a future increase  of smaller restaurants “geared  toward good, homemade, locally  grown food.”  In the Central Valley, Alvarado  concluded, “We still need a lot more  work to become cosmopolitan. It is  true there are different ethnicities in  the area, but we need a bigger input of  each community. Restaurants are one  way, but there are also festivals and  markets that need to be promoted. I  like to believe that we are heading in  that direction.” 

“Cooking is in

their blood.” 

Paul Topping, 

Institute of Technology

Culinary Director